Kawaramachi and Pontocho make a good evening walk in Kyoto. Start with the covered arcades in the afternoon, cross to the river at dusk, and end in the narrow lanes of Pontocho for dinner. Walking in that order keeps you out of the midday heat and away from the peak crowds at the end of the night. This walk suits couples and friends who enjoy food, shopping and a slow evening. The Kawaramachi and Nishiki guide covers the shopping streets, and the Kyoto guide shows the rest of the city.
The afternoon: arcades
The shopping arcades of Teramachi and Shinkyogoku are covered, so they work well in the afternoon, in the rain, or when the sun is strong. You will find souvenirs, small games and craft shops, and some good places for a snack. Walk slowly and look into the side passages, because many of the best small shops are off the main lane.
Leave plenty of time here, and leave the last part of the afternoon for a rest in a cafe before the river walk.
If the weather turns in the afternoon, the Kyoto International Manga Museum is an indoor option that suits a mixed group. Visitors can read a large collection of manga on site, so it works for teenagers and adults alike. Check its opening days on the official website before you go.
Dusk: the Kamo riverbank
The Kamo River runs along the east side of the district. In the evening, local people sit on the banks, walk their dogs and talk. It is a quiet place to pause after the shops, and the lights on the water make a good backdrop.
In the warm months, some restaurants set seats beside the river. Ask when you book, and check the season on each restaurant's own page before you plan to sit outside.
Check first: Check the season and the booking rules for river seats on each restaurant's own page. Seats outside depend on the weather, so ask on the day.
Pontocho: the narrow lane
Pontocho is a narrow lane of small restaurants, running parallel to the river. It is busy in the evening, so walk slowly and single file. Look at the menu boards outside each place, and choose one that has a full kitchen and a list of dishes you understand.
Many places in Pontocho need a booking, especially at weekends. Reserve before you go, and keep the time flexible in case your first choice is full.
Respect in the district
Pontocho is a working neighbourhood, not a stage. Some of the people who work in the lanes are going to or from appointments. Keep your voice low, and step aside to let them pass. Do not photograph geisha or maiko, and do not follow anyone down the lane.
The same manners apply in the nearby Gion district. Follow the signs on each lane, and if someone asks you to stop taking photos, stop at once.
Late evening: a drink in the centre
After dinner, Kawaramachi has many small bars and izakaya within a few blocks. Pick one street rather than one place, and walk it slowly. Read the menu board outside, and ask the price before you order. Keep your bag closed and in front of you in crowded streets.
Bring a light layer for the river. Even in the warm months the air can cool quickly after dark, and the riverbank is open to the wind.
Some visitors prefer an early night. The river walk is pleasant even at a quiet hour, and the buses still run from the centre.
Check first: Check the opening days and last order times on Tabelog or on each shop's page. Many small places close one day a week, and some close early on weekdays.
Getting back to your base
The area has the Kawaramachi and Karasuma subway stops, and many bus routes. Check the last train or the last bus on the operator's website before you go out. If your hotel is far from the centre, plan the return before your last drink.
What to do next
Use the Kyoto guide to see how the centre fits into your trip. For the area itself, read the Kawaramachi and Nishiki guide. You can also see more guides in the guides index, or use the planner to add this walk to your plan.
