Koyasan is a mountain full of temples, south of Osaka. Its main attraction is the old Okunoin cemetery, a long forest path with stone lanterns and memorial stones. You can visit for a day, but many visitors stay one night in a temple, because the mountain is quiet after the day visitors leave.
Getting there
The route is a train, a cable car and a bus. You start by train from Namba in Osaka, then change to a cable car up the hillside, and finish with a bus to the town on the top. Plan the whole route before you leave, because the connections are not frequent.
Check first: Train, cable car and bus times, and the fares. Use the operator's timetable for each part of the route. Do not use a time or a fare from a blog.
For the Osaka side of the trip, read the Osaka guide. The start of the route is in the Namba and Dotonbori area.
Okunoin cemetery
The Okunoin cemetery is the heart of the mountain. The path runs through tall cedar trees, past many stone lanterns, moss-covered monuments and memorial stones. It is a long walk, so wear comfortable shoes and go slowly.
Keep your voice low and walk quietly. Many visitors are there to pay respects, not to sightsee. Follow the signs about photos and paths, and do not step onto the graves.
The temples
The town has many temples, and the largest is Kongobuji, the head temple of its school. Some temples have gardens, halls and rooms you can see with a ticket. Visit a few, and do not try to see them all. The calm of the mountain is the reason to come.
Staying the night
Many visitors stay in a temple lodging, called shukubo. Some lodgings offer a meal of temple food, which is often vegetarian. Some also offer a morning prayer. Lodgings differ in their rooms, their meals and their rules, so choose one that fits your plan.
Check first: Booking, prices, what each stay includes, check-in times and the rules of the temple. Use the official Koyasan tourism site and the website of the temple you choose. This guide does not give prices or booking rules, because they change.
When to go
Koyasan is a mountain, so the weather changes quickly. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons. Autumn leaves can turn the forest into a bright colour. Winter is cold, and snow can close paths, so check the weather before you go. Summer can be warm and damp.
Who it suits
Couples often choose a night in a temple, with a slow evening walk through the cemetery when the day visitors have left. Solo travellers like the quiet, the time to think and the simple food. Both groups should keep to the quiet rules of the temples.
Mistakes to avoid
The first mistake is planning a day trip with no margin. The last cable car and bus can leave earlier than you expect, so check them before you start.
The second mistake is wearing the wrong shoes. The cemetery path has steps and uneven stones.
The third mistake is treating the temples as a museum. They are places of worship. Read the signs, keep quiet and follow the rules.
Tips for a slow visit
Start the cemetery walk early, if you can. The paths are quieter before the day visitors arrive, and the light through the trees is soft. Bring a small bag with water, a light jacket and a small light for the walk back, because the forest gets dark quickly in the evening.
If you stay the night, ask your lodging about its meal times, bath times and any morning routine. Knowing these in advance lets you plan the day around them. Leave an hour free with no plan at all. A quiet hour in a temple garden is a good way to end the day on the mountain.
What to do next
Koyasan works as a day or a night from Osaka. Read the Osaka guide to plan your base, and open the planner to fit the mountain into your trip.
