November is one of the strongest months to visit Kyoto. The leaves turn in the temple gardens and the hills, and some temples open their gardens in the evening with lights. The month also brings big crowds to the best spots and cold evenings. With an early start and a clear plan for the evening, you can enjoy Kyoto in November without spending the day in a queue.
Why November is special in Kyoto
Kyoto has more temples and gardens than most cities. In November, many of them show autumn colour. The light is lower and softer, which makes the old wooden buildings and the stone paths look striking in photographs and in person. The evenings are also a highlight, when some temples light their grounds after dark.
The same qualities make the month busy. Visitors come for the leaves, so the best spots fill up quickly, especially at midday.
Timing the leaves
Leaves in Kyoto can turn late in the autumn. The city centre and the hills often peak at different times, so a window in the later part of the season is a good plan. Check the leaf forecast for Kyoto before you choose the dates. Keep one spare day, so you can move a temple visit to the best day.
Check first: the official Kyoto tourism site for the leaf forecast and for the evening opening of any temple. Evening openings and their dates change each year, so check the temple's own official page before you plan the night.
Plan the crowds
Go early. The first hour after opening is often the calmest time at the big temples and the main gardens. Late morning and early afternoon are the busiest. Walk the lesser-known paths at the start or the end of the day, when the light is warm and the crowds are thinner.
Use the trains and buses in the early morning as well. Stations and buses fill up at midday. Keep a map on your phone, and check the bus stop before you walk to it.
| Time of day | What works well |
|---|---|
| Early morning | The main temples and gardens, before the tour groups |
| Midday | Indoor sights, a long lunch, a museum or a covered market |
| Late afternoon | Lesser-known paths, with warmer light |
| Evening | Night illuminations, where they are open, and a quiet walk |
Evenings and the cold
November evenings are cold. Bring a warm layer, a scarf and comfortable shoes with grip, because paths can be damp and the stone steps can be slippery. A light rain jacket is also useful. Warm drinks from the convenience stores are a good way to warm up between sites.
Food and rest
Kyoto food is a highlight in autumn. For a meal near your temple or station, use Tabelog to read recent reviews and check the opening hours on the restaurant page before you walk over. Many small places close early in the evening, so plan dinner before the cold sets in. A long lunch is a good way to avoid the midday crowds.
Solo and couple tips
For couples, book one evening walk and one quiet morning. For solo travellers, a guided walk or a small group visit can make the crowds easier to handle. In both cases, choose a hotel near a station, so the walk back at night is short.
Shops and small stops
Kyoto is a city of small shops, tea houses and craft stores. In November, many visitors fill the main lanes in the middle of the day, so a short shop visit in the morning or late afternoon is a good way to keep your day relaxed. The covered food market near the centre is a good place to buy a snack for the walk. Keep cash for small shops, and check on each shop's own page whether it takes cards.
Use the side lanes for a break. A quiet tea stop or a bench near a temple gate is a good place to rest and plan the next stop on your phone.
Getting around the city
Buses are the main way to reach hillside temples. They fill up at midday, so the early morning and the late afternoon are better times to ride. Walking between the centre and the eastern temples takes time, and the hills add effort. Use the bus for the hills, and walk the flat streets. Keep a bus card or the exact fare ready, and check the route on your phone the day before.
What to do next
Use the planner to fit Kyoto into your November trip and check the other days: the planner. For a full city page, read the Kyoto guide at Kyoto guide. For the leaf timing in other places, read the autumn leaves article in this blog.
