Obon is a summer holiday in mid-August. Many people travel to their home towns to visit family and the graves of their ancestors. Trains, buses and shinkansen fill up, and some local shops and restaurants close for part of the holiday. If you travel in Japan in August, Obon is the thing to plan for.
What Obon is
Obon honours the ancestors of a family. People clean the family grave, make small offerings and welcome the spirits home for a few days. It is a family holiday, so the cities feel quieter in some streets and busier in the stations.
Many towns hold a bon odori, a community dance held in the evening at a park, a shrine or a temple square. These dances are open to visitors. If someone invites you to join in, you can take part. Otherwise, watch from a respectful distance.
How Obon changes travel
- Trains and shinkansen. The main lines fill up, especially on the days before and after the core dates. Book seats early for long routes. Check the operator's page for timetable changes.
- Hotels. Rooms in popular cities and holiday spots sell out. Book early and check the cancellation rules.
- Sights. Famous temples, parks and shrines are crowded in the middle of the day. Go early.
- Shops and restaurants. Some small businesses close for several days. A place you saw on a map may be shut. Check before you walk there.
- Heat. August is hot and humid. Plan indoor visits for the afternoon.
Plan around the busiest days
The peak travel days come before and after the core dates. These are the days when families move between cities. If your route allows it, travel on a quieter day. Look at the national holiday calendar for your year and compare it with your dates.
Stay in one base for a few nights instead of moving every day. Make day trips from that base. You will carry less luggage, and you will spend less time at the station.
Where to go instead of the crowds
- Go early to a shrine. Morning is cooler, and the grounds are quieter.
- Choose a museum or an indoor market for the middle of the afternoon.
- Walk a local neighbourhood in the evening, when the heat falls.
- Eat at a station food floor if the street restaurants are closed. Use Tabelog to check which places are open that week.
Who you meet during Obon
Many people leave the big cities for their home towns during this week. Some companies close for the whole week. The staff in shops and hotels may be on a shift to cover the busy days, or they may be on leave themselves. Be patient at ticket counters and information desks, and say thank you to staff. A little patience makes a busy day easier for everyone.
Notes for the long journey
- Carry a light bag. It is easier to find space on a rack or in a crowded car.
- Reserve seats. On long routes, a reserved seat is a safer choice than a free seat.
- Check reserved-seat rules. If you hold a rail pass, check on the operator's page whether seats still need a separate booking.
- Use the app. Long queues form at ticket counters in the big stations. A machine or the operator's app can save time.
- Keep a backup. Save a second route on your phone. If a train is full or delayed, you can change plans at once.
Long-distance buses are another option on some routes. Check the timetable and the booking rules before you choose one.
If you plan to travel on a holiday peak, carry a printed copy of your booking as well as the one on your phone. Phone batteries run down on long trips, and station staff can check a paper ticket quickly.
Check first
Check first: the dates of Obon in your year, and the advice from the rail operator for your route. The operator's site has the latest timetable and any extra services. For local events, check the official site of the city or town.
What to do next
Start with the planner. Choose your bases and check which routes are busy. For the capital, read the Tokyo page. If you plan to visit the old capital, see the Kyoto page.