Hakone is a mountain area near Tokyo. It has hot springs, a cable car, a volcanic valley and a lake with a view of Mount Fuji. Many visitors go for one day. A night at an onsen inn gives a slower trip.
Getting there
A reserved express train runs from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, the main town gate. From there, a mountain railway climbs with a zigzag route. Then a ropeway and a bus or boat take you across the area. The route is simple once you see it on a map.
Check first: Express seat reservations, the Hakone pass options and the current fares. Use the operator's site, not a blog. Passes and prices change.
Order of the day
Plan the route in one direction, from the town to the lake. That way you avoid backtracking.
- Mountain railway: the zigzag climb is part of the ride. Look out of the window at each turn.
- Ropeway: from the upper station, you can see the volcanic valley at Owakudani. The area has steam vents and a smell of sulphur.
- Black eggs: at Owakudani, eggs are boiled in the hot spring water. The shells turn black. It is a local treat.
- Lake Ashi: a pirate-style boat crosses the lake to the old town of Moto-Hakone.
- Shrine: the red torii gate in the lake is near the shore. Look for it from the boat or the path.
Onsen and tattoos
An onsen is a hot spring bath. Many onsen inns in Hakone have indoor and outdoor baths. Rules differ by place. Many onsen do not allow people with visible tattoos, though some offer private baths or cover-up stickers. Ask the inn before you book.
Wash before you enter the bath. Do not take towels into the water. Keep your hair up.
The volcano
The valley at Owakudani is an active volcanic area. At times, the authorities restrict access to parts of it. The view and the eggs are good when the area is open. Check the status before you plan the day around it.
Check first: Whether Owakudani is open, and the current volcanic alert level. Use the Hakone tourism site and the official notices. Check the JMA website for the alert level, because it is the national source.
Stay or go back
A day trip covers the main sights. A night gives you the onsen and a calm evening. If you stay, book a room with a private bath or a room near the lake. The view of Mount Fuji from the lake is best early in the morning, when the air is clear.
Season
Autumn has clear skies and warm colours. Winter can be cold, and the views are often clearer. Summer is warm, and the mountains are green. The rainy season in June can bring low cloud, so plan a flexible day.
Mistakes to avoid
The first mistake is booking the express seat late on a busy weekend. A reserved seat takes away the stress of standing for the whole ride. Book it when you book your trip.
The second mistake is planning the whole day around the views. Clouds often hide the mountain. Keep the lake and the onsen as the main plan, and treat the view as a bonus.
The third mistake is skipping the rules at the onsen. Read the sign at the entrance, and ask the staff if you are unsure. A small question at the desk is better than a problem in the bath.
The last mistake is forgetting that the mountain roads can be slow. Buses and cable cars carry many visitors on holidays. Start early, and keep your return plan simple.
Quick checklist
- Check the express seat and the return train before you leave Tokyo.
- Look at the volcanic alert and the bath rules on the day.
- Bring a light layer. Mountain air is cooler than the city, even in summer.
- Carry some cash for small shops, and an IC card for the trains.
What to do next
Hakone fits well between Tokyo and Kyoto on a longer trip. For a plan with Tokyo as the base, read the planner. For the city, see the Tokyo page and the Shinjuku area, where the express train starts.
